Author Archives: jmilohas@outlook.com

Puerto Rico Ironman 2025

Late March 2025

Introduction

The Ironman returned to Puerto Rico in mid-March. Athletes from North and South America converged on San Juan to compete in the event. They did a 1.2 mile swim, a 56 mile bike ride, and finished with a half marathon into and out of Old San Juan.

I live near the park where much of the activities occurred. I wandered around with my cameras and tried to get images capturing the flavor of the event, Here ae a few of them.

Preparations

I noted things happening starting the Friday before the Sunday event.

Workers constructed a ramp for swimmers to use at the end of the 1.2 mile swim. The tape is probably to prevent curious tourists from using it.

Course officials put up signage. These signs identify the line where athletes can mount their bike and start the 56 mile ride.

The tent is where volunteers will hand cups of water and Gatorade to the athletes as they start their half marathon (13.2 miles).

These competitors are bringing their bikes for a technical inspection. The bikes will then be placed on racks in a secure area for use on Sunday.

The four digit number on the bike to the right indicates the rider is part of a relay team. Relay teams are allowed but all the swimmers on relay teams start last,And note the typical bike geometry – the rear axle is held in place by two tubes connected to the seat post. Compare this to the next bike.

This bike is constructed of carbon fiber. It would be a blast to ride but I’n not sure I would trust the strength of the frame.

The Start

The athletes gathered at the Condado end of the Puentes dos Hermanos (Bridge of the Two Brothers) for the start. They were grouped by estimated time to finish the swim, with the fastest swimmers starting before the others.

The swimmers had to pass this sign as they started. I wonder what the manatees thought of all the commotion as 700 swimmers splashed their way around their lagoon.

The athletes struck various poses before the swim – some serious, some anxious, others happy to get started.

Three swimmers entered the water every five seconds,

The Swim

The swim course, marked by orange inflatable markers, proceeded to the east end of the Laguna del Condado (Condado lagoon) where the course made a U-turn and headed back west. The swimmers went under the bridge and proceeded to the ramp.

I find the swim portion difficult to photograph – I usually get a swimming cap and a lot of white water, But here are few.

The disturbance to the left is the swimmers proceeding east . You can barely make out the fastest swimmers to the right, as they have made the turn at the end of the lagoon.

Volunteers in kayaks keep watch and help redirect any misguided swimmers.

The Swim-Bike Transition

Swimmers leave the water via the ramp and proceed about a quarter of a mile to the fenced area where their bikes are stored.

Some competitors leave a pair or running shoes by the ramp, to use in the transition.

Some of the athletes choose to make the transition bare-footed.The strap on the left ankle contains electronics that communicate with the timers at various points along the course.

The athletes make their way to the bike paddock, put on their cycling gear, and head to the Mount Line to begin the bike leg.

This rider has just mounted his bike and is ready to start the 56 mile ride to Dorado and back.

The Bike Leg

The riders leave Parc Escambron by a straight road ending in an uphill left turn. The riders then traverse a quick right and left proceed for one block to a sharp left turn onto a long straight stretch. Here are some images of riders leaving the park.

Photographing the bikers has its challenges. The background is usually cluttered, with flags, spectators, and vegetation. The sun angle might be wrong. And sometimes capturing their speed is difficult, But there are some tricks I use.

As the two images above show, I can use Photoshop to remove the background. I have to play around a bit with image file formats but it works pretty well.

The riders above are just starting their ride. I had by this time watched the start, the swim, and the transition. The elite athletes had long since passed. In fact, there was a bit of a lull as I waited for the first riders to return.

The bikers cam off a long straight stretch to a sharp right turn.

The riders above were in the first five to return.

The riders then had to execute a tricky downhill left and then right going into the park.

A slight downhill straightaway took the riders to the Dismount Line.

OK, some of the images above capture speed. I can also use my film camera and pan the riders using a slow shutter speed.

Yhis is an image from two years ago. I sent my 35 mm film from this year to the lab but haven’t gotten them back yet. In any case, I think the image gives a sense of speed.

The Bike-Run Transition

This is just the opposite of the swim-bike transition. Bike riders dismount at the Dismount Line and run their bikes to the fenced area. There they don their running shoes and start the run. I used my 35 mm camera for this part of the event; the film has not yet been processed.

The Run

The 13.2 mile run is two laps into and out of Old San Juan. I have a hard time taking pictures of runners. The sun is high and the light is harsh. The background is cluttered. And the runners look like they are in agony. But here are three.

Final Thoughts

The Ironman is always fun to watch. The crowds are enthusiastic, the weather is beautiful, and the athletes seem to enjoy a well-run event.

Much to the delight of the crowd, Puerto Rican athlete Javier Figueroa won with s time of a few seconds over four hours. Kiel Bur of the US finished second in four hours and four minutes. Tara Mcwilliams won the women’s event, posting a time of four hours and forty one minutes. Click here for the offical website with complete results,

The images are all mine. I use both a Sony mirrorless digital camera, and an old Nikon 35 mm single lens reflex. I edit the images with Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Bezos in the House?

Late February 2025

Introduction

Jeff Bezos may be here in San Juan. I haven’t seen him but his mega-yacht Koru is docked in Old San Juan. So I’m guessing Bezos, if he is not here now, will soon arrive to enjoy some Caribbean sailing.

Bezos is of course the founder of Amazon. He has, according to a recent Forbes article, a net worth of $230 billion. And yes that is billion, not million. That makes him the second richest person in the United States, behind Elon Musk. Musk’s net worth is about $385 billion.

This is the second time I’ve seen the Koru here, She was in port in December for a couple of weeks. I knew then that Jeff Bezos would not be sailing her as he was being feted by Donald Trump in Mar-a-Lago. As you might recall, Elon Musk crashed that party. I wonder how the conversation between them went. Perhaps they were discussing Trump’s promise to provide a tax cut for the rich.

It is hard to understand just how rich these two are. For comparison, here are the five poorest countries as ranked by GDP.

Tuvalu$62 million
Nauru$184 million
Kiribati$279 million
Palau$283 million
Marshall Islands $284 million

These are small island nations with small populations. And note the GDP is listed in millions, not billions.

I wondered how Musk and Bezos compared to larger nations.

Egypt$395 billion
Elon Musk$385 billion
Finland$300 billion

and

Portugal$280 billion
Jeff Bezos$230 billion
Hungary$212 billion

I think I know why the Republicans want to cut taxes on the rich. There is no way Elon Musk should be poorer than Egypt, or Jeff Bezos poorer than Portugal.

There are better ways to portray a nation’s economic condition. One way to to divide the GDP by the adult population, giving a figure called Personal Purchasing Power. But that is for another time and place.

The Koru

Jeff Bezos’ mega-yacht Koru cost $500 million to build. Here is how that figure compares to the GDP of two countries.

Dominica$654 million
Yacht Koru$500 million
Tonga$500 million

The Koru was built in the Netherlands, at the Oceanco shipyard, starting in 2021. She was delivered in April of 2023. There was some controversy surrounding her launch. The original plan was to partially dismantle the historic De Hef bridge to allow the Koru through. After a public outcry, the plan was changed and the masts were installed downriver of the bridge.

An image of the historic De Hef bridge in the Netherlands.

The Koru is 127 m (417 ft) long with a beam of 17 m (56 ft). She draws 5 m (16 ft) of water. At a gross tonnage of 3,490 tons, the Koru is larger than some warships.

The Koru has a crew of between 35 and 50, and can accommodate 18 passengers.

Note the data receivers on one of the masts. At least, that is what I think it is. If so, it allows Jeff Bezos and guests to watch the latest Prime releases.

When at sea, the Koru is accompanied by its own support vessel, the Abeona. The Abeona itself is 75 m (246 ft) long, has a helipad with enclosed storage space for a helicopter, and carries more crew and relief supplies for the Koru..

I haven’t seen the Abeona here in San Juan. Perhaps they are destined to meet on some other Caribbean island.

Notes and Sources

I used GDP estimates as generated by the World Bank and as listed on Wikipedia. Click here for more information.

The image of the De Hef bridge is from Wikipedia.

Click here for the source of the image of the Koru at sea.

Unless otherwise attributed, the photos are mine. I use a digital point and shoot camera and edit them with Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Master Plan

Mid February 2025

Introduction

Tourism represents about two percent of the Puerto Rican economy. Manufacturing, at about 43%, is the largest sector. These data come from a recent report of the Financial Oversight and Management Board for Puerto Rico, which is known locally as PROMESA. PROMESA is an acronym of the Board’s name in Spanish. Here is a link to that report.

I don’t know PROMESA’s methodologies but the two percent figure seems low. I’ve read other estimates that suggest tourism accounts for about 15% of the economy.

Even at 15%, most visitors would probably that that was a low estimate. Tourists often stay in the heavily tourist areas of Old San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde with occasional forays to the rain forest (El Yunque) and other island destinations. But tourists are rarer in other parts of the island.

The government here has a master plan to increase tourism. I have heard of the plan, talked with Puerto Rican friends about it, but have never seen it. As I understand it, there are several components of the plan but two are to: increase cruise ship visits and attract more luxury mega yachts. I see evidence of some changes in the port now in support of these goals.

Port Changes

Past Uses

We can, from our balcony, see Piers 14 and 15 of the Port of San Juan. We used to watch ships carrying steel, cars, and occasionally coal come into Pier 14 and unload. Once we watched as a ship was loaded with chunks of concrete, apparently headed somewhere to be ground up and used as aggregate in new concrete mixes.

Here is a freighter unloading steel at Pier 14. The fork lifts arrive about the same time as the ship and move rebars, rolls of spring steel, and coils of steel wire onto the surface.

The forklift is transporting two rolls of steel wire. After the ship is emptied, the forklifts load a steady stream of flat bed trucks.

These stacks of rebars will be loaded onto flat bed trucks.

This is a vehicle carrying new cars from Korea, Japan or perhaps the assembly plants in Vera Cruz, Mexico.

New cars are being driven off the ship. Drivers deliver cars from the ship to the pier and then are taken by van back onto the ship for more cars. It takes about eight hours to unload s ship this size.

This ship is taking on chunks of concrete. I’m not sure where it will be taken but it will be crushed, graded by size, and used as aggregate in new concrete.

This ship, from Amsterdam, has a deck cargo of new yachts. The stevedores were vary careful as they unloaded some of them and put them directly onto special trailers.

The Future?

We no longer see activities like these at Piers 14 and 15. The activity has moved to the new port area on the other side of the bay, or perhaps to Ponce, on the Caribbean coast.

According to my Puerto Rican friends who have seen the Master Plan, the frontage along piers 14 and 15 and adjoining piers will become a pedestrian-friendly area with walkways, restaurants, sitting areas. Perhaps water taxis will ply the harbor. The idea is to direct visitors from Old San Juan along this part of the port, and perhaps around to District T Mobile, a recently completed area with bars, restaurants,and entertainment venues, located near the Convention Center.

Yachts and Cruise Ships

The Master Plan calls for more cruise ship activity and for more mega-yachts to be homeported here.

Now, mega-yachts have occasionally visited here. For example, the unique Yacht A came a few years ago.

Motor Yacht A belongs to a Russian oligarch and has not been in port for several years. I’ve written about her previously – check out my posts here and here.

Likewise, the mega-yacht Eclipse has not been here for a while.

I also wrote about her in an earlier post.

While visits by these super yachts are undoubtedly welcome, the idea is to make the port available for smaller, but still mega, yachts. And that has already started. Piers 8, 9 and 10 have been converted from freight piers to docking area for large yachts.

Two large yachts moored at Pier 9. Small freighters used to leave from here, carrying 6 or 8 containers to Vieques or Culebra, the two Puerto Rican island east of the large island.

A large yacht moored at Pier 8.

Work has begun to increase cruise ship activity, both in terms of home porting and one day visits. Pier 3 was lengthened to accommodate the largest cruise ships. However, last April the end of the pier was damaged by a cruise ship leaving port. Repairs are continuing but the largest cruise ships cannot be accommodated yet.

The tents house construction equipment to affect repairs on the east side pf Pier 3. Until completed and inspected by the Coast Guard, only smaller cruise ships can dock at this pier.

Summary

Puerto Rico has a master plan to increase tourism. It includes rethinking the current port activities, and attracting more cruise ships and yachts. When will it it be implemented? I suspect no one knows that for sure.

Notes and Sources

The photos are all mine, taken with a digital camera and edited with Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop. I learned of discussions of the MAster Plan in informal talks with my Puerto Rican friends.

Plain Brown Wall

Mid January 2025

Introduction

The bus lane carrying public transit into and out of Old San Juan passes just south of our building. In the block immediately to the east, one story walls are found on both sides of the street. Over the years, the walls attracted mural artists and they produced a series of colorful works of art.

I use the past tense because in the last day or two the walls have been painted an ugly shade of brown. In this post, i will offer unfounded speculations as to why this happened and celebrate some of the art work that has been painted over.

Idle Speculations

Just down the street from us, an apartment building has been under construction. It is now close to completion. The front of the building is on Avenida de la Constitucion; the back is on the bus lane. I wonder if the building owners, now close to showing the luxury apartments to potential buyers, wanted the walls repainted to ‘tidy up’ the neighborhood.

The new apartment building. I took this image while standing in the bus lane. Our building is visible in the lower left of this image.

There are, by my count, twelve floors. There are perhaps four apartments per floor. And it is in a great location. I don’t know anything about apartment prices but these have to be expensive.

The owners probably had dominion of the wall along the back of their building; that was probably part of the parcel of land the developer bought. But I don’t know how they could extend their influence to the other side of the street, Perhaps the developers, wielding their political clout, convinced the government to paint the walls on both sides of the street. Or maybe the new governor, riding in her motorcade, thought the wall murals an eyesore and ordered the walls painted.

Or it could be some other reason entirely. As I say, these are but idle speculations.

Disappeared Art

So here are some of the murals now gone.

This was one the south side of the street. Actually, it had been painted over, perhaps by the same artist.

This was also on the south side of the street,

Crab Lady was on the wall on the north side of the street,

The Undertaker was a Puerto Rican professional wrestler. This too had been painted over. See my earlier post here.

This is what replaced The Undertaker.

A celebration of grass and surf.

I’m guessing this is an anti-hate statement. This was next to the Crab Lady.

A whimsical smiley face.

Another whimsical face.

Today

The walls, once filled with colorful, challenging, sometimes ugly, sometimes celebratory, sometimes whimsical paintings, is now an ugly shade of brown.

I’m glad I had the foresight to capture some of the images while they still existed.

Notes and Sources

The images are all mine. I use a Sony digital point and shoot camera and edit my images using Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Street Art- Gone But Not Forgotten

Early December 2024

Introduction

The other day, as I was searching for new examples of street art, i began to think of the art that I had seen but has since disappeared. Of course, I had thought along these lines before (check out these earlier posts here and here).

When I started photographing and writing about street art, I did not realize I would have an image repository of wall murals that are now gone, for one reason or another. If you’re a regualar reader of this blog, you will have seen some of these before. But I think they are all worth a revisit. I’ll try to arrange them by neighborhood, when I can.

Sagrado Corazon

This mural, on the wall of a three story building, was visible for several years from the platform of the urban train station in Sagrado Corazon. It had faded over the years; it is now gone. I never did figure out the symbolism.

The evocative Woman with Green Face was also near the Sagrado Corazon urban train station. She has long since been painted over.

Domenech

I first noticed this while on the urban train as the train, elevated at that point, rounded a curve near the Domenech station. A few days later, I went back, got off at that station and took this from street level. The mural is still on the wall but it has faded enough to obliterate it.

Avenida Juan Ponce de Leon

The next two were just off Avenida Juan Ponce de Leon, the main street through San Juan, near the intersection with Avenida de Diego. They have since been painted over.

Plaza del Mercado, Santurce

The next four are from the neighborhood around the Plaza del Mercado in Santurce. The house above was on the street leading to the plaza from the south, off Avenida Juan Ponce de Leon. It is rare to see wall murals with red as the dominant color.

These intricate figures were on the bridge pier along Calle Canal, entering the Plaza area from Condado, to the north. They’ve been painted over.

This smiling face greeted visitors to the Plaza as they headed north, along Calle Canal.

Condado

This was not technically in Condado. It was on a side street leading into Condado, from the south. I was and remain intrigued by this work.

Calle Cerra

As I’ve written before, Calle Cerra is a hotbed of wall art. I’ll probably do another post on it later but here are three examples of murals there that have been painted over with new art.

Conclusion

So there are a few examples of wall art that has disappeared. I wonder if copyright protection still pertains to works painted over. I should check that out. Perhaps I can use these and other images in a book to sell to avid tourists pouring off the cruise ships. What do you think – want to send me a few bucks to get me started?

Notes and Sources

The images are all mine. I use a Sony point and shoot digital camera and edit my images with Adobe Lightroom and/or Adobe Photoshop.

Puerto Rico Ironman 2024

Late August 2024

Introduction

Puerto Rico hosts a professional ironman competition every March. The three components – swim, bike, run – all begin and end near my apartment. I wander around with my cameras in hand and try to capture some of the excitement of the day. Here are some of my efforts.

Preparations

It takes three or four days to prepare the course. Traffic barriers have to be put up for the bike race. Inflatable pylons have to be placed to mark the swim course. A paddock has to be constructed to store the bikes.

A worker begins to prepare the ramp by which swimmers will exit the Condado Lagoon and make their way to the paddock to get their bikes and start the bike leg.

The completed ramp awaits the swimmers. The protective tape is presumably to prevent curious tourists from using it.

On Saturday afternoon, a competitor wheels his bike to the paddock. A bike like this has a list price of about $9,000.

More bikes in the paddock. The bikes are assigned places by number; the the athletes will store their running gear by their bikes.

The Start

The event starts Sunday morning. The competitors line up by the times they expect to finish the swim, with the fastest swimmers starting first.

The first cohort of swimmers line up behind the 25 minutes or less sign. Once the event begins, three swimmers will enter the course every five seconds.

After the U.S. and Puerto Rican national anthems, a percussion band serenades the swimmers.

The first group of swimmers await the start.

An athlete anxiously awaits her start. She will swim 1.3 miles, bike for 56 miles, and then run for another 13.1 miles – a total of 70.3 miles.

As you can see, most of the athletes seemed serious, even anxious, before the start.

The Swim

Three swimmers enter the water every five seconds and begin the 1.3 mile swim. They head east and then around the end of the Condado Lagoon. They exit after they pass under the bridge connecting Condado to the Isleta de San Juan, the small island of San Juan.

The swimmers enter the water to the left and head east and then around the east end of the Condado Lagoon. They have to keep the pylons on their right. Volunteers in kayaks and on paddleboats keep an eye on things.

The swimmers pass under a bridge on the way to the ramp. The air and water temperature are both about 80 F.

The Swim-Bike Transition

The swimmers leave the water via the ramp shown earlier, and run about a quarter of a mile to the paddock to don their biking gear and run with their bikes to the start of the bike leg.

Some of the athletes make the swim-bike transition barefoot, others stash a pair of running shows by the ramp.

The athletes enter the paddock, get into their biking gear, and grab their bikes and make their way to the start of the bike leg.

The bikers have to cross the Mount Bike line before they can get get on their bikes and actually start to ride.

The Bike Leg

The riders start in Parc Escambron, in San Juan, and ride to Dorado and back. It is a flat route. They finish at the Dismount line, and then run with their bikes to the paddock, don their running gear, and start the run.

Two riders have just mounted their bikes and are starting the bike leg. The long shadows reveal the early hour; it as about 8 15 AM.

A rider accelerating put of the park.

More riders just starting their bike ride. By this time, the elite athletes are well into the bike leg; these competitors are in it for their personal aggrandizement.

Two more just starting the bike leg.

The fastest riders complete the bike leg in a bit over two hours. I waited for the first riders to return.

An elite rider nearing completion of his bike race.

The riders make their way back into the park, dismount just before the Dismount line, and make their way to the paddock.

There is a tricky S curve just as the riders enter the park.

A short section of the road into the park utilizes these tiles to identify a cross walk. It is good it was a dry day – they are very slippery when wet.

Three elite riders speeding towards the Dismount line.

A rider just at the Dismount line.

The Bike-Run Transition

The athletes run with their bikes to the paddock, change into their running shoes, and start the 13.1 mile run. It is two laps into and out of Old San Juan. The course is hilly,

Three riders just past the Dismount line. The racing bikes identify them as competitive athletes.

Volunteers assist along the way. This one is offering a spray of sunscreen before the run.

The Run

The run,13.1 miles, is two laps into and back from Old San Juan, along a hilly course.

I find the run uninteresting. The runners seem to be in agony, the sun is high and harsh, and I find it difficult to capture a good image. But here are a few.

A runner leaving the paddock as he begins the half-marathon.

The runner to the left is finishing his first lap; the others are just starting theirs.

Results

Matheus Salto Martine of Brazil was the overall winner, with a time of 4:04:46. Javier Figueroa of Puerto Rico was second, at 4:09:33. Kiel Bur of the US was third at 4:11:01.

All in all, it was a beautiful day

The solicitation for the 2025 event is out; click here to see it. If you’re thinking of entering, better start training now. March 16, 2025 will be here before you know it.

Notes

The images are all mine. I use a Sony point and shoot digital camera and an old 35 mm Nikon. I edit the images with Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Street Art: New Finds

August 2024

Introduction

I had occasion to be in San Juan for a week earlier this month. While I spent most of my time working with (or waiting for) workmen to do various tasks in our apartment, I did have time to find new street art. In fact, one of the workmen, knowing my interest in street art, took me on a quick tour of new works in his car. So here are newly discovered works from two parts of the city.

Puerta de Tierra

Calle San Agustin

The walled city of Old San Juan is on a small island, Isleta de San Juan. The walled city once had a gate called Puerta de Tierra, literally gate to the land. The gate in question, once located where the Plaza Colon has since been built, was the walled city’s gate to the rest of the Isleta de San Juan; that part of the island is now known as Puerta de Tierra.

An electric scooter leans against a wall on which a muralist proclaims his love of his neighborhood.

The next four images are from a small square along Calle San Agustin. There is a small kisoco there which sells beer, juices, and empanadillas to patrons sitting at umbrella-shaded tables.

My guide told me the mural depicted a recent Puerto Rican Miss Universe contestant.

I found the next two also on Calle San Agustin, across from a bar I sometimes visit. They are a mini sports hall of fame.

This mural honors Monica Puig and Roberto Clemente. Monica Puig, a professional tennis player, won a Gold Medal at the 2016 Olympics, in the tennis singles event. She was the first Puerto Rican to win a gold. Roberto Clemente was a 21 year Hall of Fame major league baseball player.

Jasmine Camacho Quinn became the second Puerto Rican to win an Olympics gold medal. She won the women’s 100 meter hurdles at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

This colorful mural is in a courtyard just off of Avenida de la Constitucion, a block up from Calle San Agustin.

Calle del Tren

The next four are along the Calle del Tren, the bus lanes into and out of Old San Juan.

This is a huge mural, about five stories tall. I don’t know who the artist is but the mural reminds me of one on the Calle Cerra neighborhood. That mural was of a large rabbit.

This mural is much more modestly sized. I like the green face.

These last two are along the bus lanes one block east of our apartment building.

Calle Cerra

The Calle Cerra neighborhood, in the Santurce neighborhood of San Juan, is noted for its everchanging wall art. I’ve written about it before (click here and here to get caught up). Here are some new murals I found on my recent trip.

The first is on the block between Avenida Ponce de Leon and Avenida Fernandez Juncos. It is a cross from a small Mexican restaurant, one of our favorites.

The others are from a block or two down, south of Avenida Fernandez Juncos.

The above is on a side wall along the sidewalk.

This is by the Puerto Rican artist David Zayas. It replaces an earlier work by the same artist. If I chose to edit this image further, I will remove the louvres. It will take some time but I think it will be worth it.

This is on a wall along the sidewalk, one block east of Calle Cerra.

The two murals above are along the sidewalk.

The last three are along an alley off of lower Calle Cerra.

Notes and Sources

I captured the murals with my digital camera. I edit them with Adobe Lightroom and/or Adobe Photoshop.

Check Wikipedia for information on the three athletes shown in the murals along Calle San Agustin.

Use Wikipedia to find information about the Puerto Rican artist David Zayas.

El Mosaico

Mid March 2024

Introduction

I’ve written about and shown images of street art, murals on walls, here in San Juan. In this post, I’ll show examples of mosaics, art generated by piecing together ceramic tiles. While not as numerous as wall murals, the mosaics add to the visual tapestry here.

Parc Luis Munoz Rivera

At 27.2 acres, Parc Luis Munoz Rivera is the largest public space in San Juan. It is named for the late nineteenth and early twentieth Puerto Rican statesman. It sits on land that was once San Juan’s first line of defense. A powder and ammunition magazine (El Polvorin de San Geronimo) still exists.

The park was developed in the 1920s, with major restorations in the 1970s and from 2000 to 2004.

The sidewalks along the southern and western edges of the park have extensive ceramic murals. I’m not sure when they were installed, or who the artist was.

A section of the sidewalk along the southern end of Parc Luis Munoz Rivera. Most of the mosaics show flowers and vines.

Here are four more examples of floral-inspired ceramic mosaics.

Here are two examples of animal life as found on the sidewalk along the southern edge of the park. I suspect these represent the ubiquitous Puerto Rican tree frog, the coqui.

Felisa Rincon de Gautier

Felisa Rincon de Gautier served as Mayor of San Juan in the post World War II years, from 1948 to 1968. She was in fact the first woman mayor of any American capital city. Know familiarly as Dona Fela, she started a series of pre-schools known as Las Escuelas Maternales. These became the model for the later Head Start program. In 1952, 1953, and 1954, she chartered planes to bring snow so the children of San Juan could play in it, at least until it melted.

A statue of Felisa Rincon de Gautier, located in a garden along the Paseo de Princesa, just outside the south wall of Old San Juan. She was known for her hair style, large eye glasses, necklaces, and hand held fans.

During 2016 and 2017, San Juan funded a mosaic mural honoring Dona Fela. It is located on the south side of Avenida Luis Munoz Rivera, just west of the park of the same name. The traffic heading into Old San Juan gives some idea of the mural’s scale. Note how the mosaic tiles extend onto and include the sidewalk.

Two images showing the mural under construction.

Note the characteristic eyeglasses, necklace and hand held fans.

The mural includes depictions of the handheld fans favored by Dona Fela.

One section the the mural refers to the Rincon de Gautier museum. It is located in Old San Juan, just inside the San Juan Gate. It is well worth a visit – Dona Fela was a remarkable woman with accomplishments beyond her time as Mayor of San Juan. In fact, when she was buried, in 1994, she was given the honors typically accorded a head of state.

La Casita

La Casita is a small building and associated grounds next to Plaza Darsena in Old San Juan. It now houses a bar specializing in Puerto Rican rums.

In Puerto Rico, each municipality has ceremonial artifacts, flags, coats of arms, etc. The walkways around La Casita have ceramic depictions of the coats of arms of all of the municipalities. Thus, the walkways celebrate the cities and towns throughout the island.

Municipalities (there are 78 of them) represent the second level of government. Each has a mayor and a unicameral legislative body, with all offices up for election every four years. Municipalities with greater than 50,000 residents are incorporated cities; those with a smaller population are incorporated towns.

Villalba

The coat of arms for Villalba, an incorporated town. Villalba is located in the south central mountains, near the city of Ponce. The coat of arms shows, on a green background, a small village, with six homes and a church. A star shines over the village. The border includes five groups of fig leaves.

Hurricane Maria (September 20, 2017) devestated Villalba. One nearby rain gauge measured over 27 inches of rainfall. The winds and rain destroyed the entire electrical system; landslides blocked roads; floods washed the emergency center building away.

Humacao

Humacao, located on the east coast, is named for the Taino chief Jumacao. The first chief to learn Spanish, Jumacao wrote a letter to King Charles I of Spain stating the Spanish Governor was not complying with the existing peace treaty. Impressed, the King ordered the Governor to adhere to the terms of the treaty.

Humacao’s coat of arms was designed in 1975. The gold represents the rising sun; the green the tropical valley of the original settlement.

Vieques

Vieques, the Spanish spelling of a Taino word, lies eight miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico. The island is about 20 miles long (east-west) and 4.5 miles at its widest. The original Taino word meant small land or small island.

Vieques’ coat of arms uses blue and white to represent the sea. A Spanish fort is depicted in the green rhombus.

Aibonito

The mosaic works are about 1.5 ft by 1.5 ft. Unfortunately, the coats of arms in the more heavily trafficked areas suffer damage, as is apparent from Aibonito’s coat of arms. As the damages worsens, plain tiles will replace the coat of arms ..

Condado

I noticed a new mosaic work on the way into Condado, the main tourist area in San Juan. It is on the retaining walls on both sides of the bridge carrying the Baldiority Expressway over PR-2 as it enters central Condado.

The artist, as identified on a plaque describing the work, is Roberto Biaggi Irizarry. The work depicts birds native to Puerto Rico.

The mural depicts a bird (clergigo in Spanish) endemic to Puerto Rico. Note the heavy traffic entering the on ramp to the expressway. This is on the wall to the right of the street entering Condado. The cars also provide a an idea as to the size of the mural.

A Puerto Rican hummingbird, as depicted on the left panel.

This bird is know locally as a San Pedrito (little Saint Peter). It is also known, because of its small size, as a “medio peso” (half dollar) bird.

Old San Juan

Within the last few years, a staircase in Old San Juan was redone with a ceramic mosaic design. The words along the bottom two steps celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the annual Festival de la Calle San Sebastian (Festival of the Street of San Sebastian). But the image on the upper steps calls to mind the story of Saint Sebastian.

According to a story I’ve heard, 50 years ago San Sebastian Street was home to a group of artists. They started a street festival (third weekend in January) to show and sell their art. The festival has grown. It is now the most important festival in San Juan. It typically lasts from Wednesday to Sunday. Seven or eight sound stage throughout the city are home to live music of different types – salsa here, rock there, traditional (bomba, plena) somewhere else. Traffic is not allowed in the city – pedestrians rule the days and nights.

Saint Sebastian (c, AD 255 – c. AD 288) was persecuted by the Roman Emperor Diocletian. According to legend, Sebastian was tied to a post and shot by arrows. He survived, thanks to the efforts of Irene of Rome. After his recovery, he went to Diocletian to warn him of his sins. In response, Diocletian clubbed Sebastian to death. A heart and arrows very often represent San Sebastian.

The ceramic pieces along the wall to the right of the staircase have the names of various sights in Old San Juan. The Mercado was once the main open air market in the city.

I watched with interest as the art work took shape. This is along the wall to the right of the stairs.

Conclusion

So here are most of the ceramic mosaics I’ve seen in San Juan. While few in number, they do add to the visual appeal of the city.

Notes and Sources

The images are mine. I use a Sony mirrorless digital camera. I edit the images with Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Click here for a brief description of Parc Luis Munoz Rivera, and here to learn more about the remarkable life of Munoz Rivera.

See the Wikipedia entry here for more information on Felisa Rincon de Gautier’s remarkable life.

It seems each of Puerto Rico’s municipalities has a Wikipedia page. For example, click here to see the page for Humacao.

I learned about the endemic birds of Puerto Rico from the plaque on the left side of the mosaic. Learn more about the artist (Roberto Biaggi Irizarry) here.

This entry provides more information about San Sebastian.

Street Art: The Changing Canvas of Calle Cerra – II

Mid November 2023

Introduction

This is a continuation of my previous post. Again, I’ll show new street art I found along Calle Cerra and recall the murals they replaced. When possible, I’ll provide information about the artist.

Ana Marietta

Ana Marietta, also know as Ana Maria Ortiz, is an American muralist, based in Houston, Texas. The mural below, like her other art, captures animal life with exaggerated features. She has murals in London, Miami, Turin, Las Vegas, Hawaii and Kiev, and other places as well. Google her name to learn more.

This mural is above Julieta’s Bar and Restaurant. Note they are advertising Alhambra, a Spanish beer.

The mural above replaced this one by the same artist. The image, taken in 2020, also serves to document the continuing gentrification of the neighborhood.

El Basta

I found El Basta on Instagram but the page wasn’t very informative. A muralist from Santurce, San Juan, he created the wall art below. Mal Caribe translates roughly as bad Caribbean.

Below is a detail of the mural. Note the car in front of the wall. It gives an idea of the scale of the work.

El Basta’s mural replaced the one below. It depicts the disease and pestilence brought to the Caribbean by the European explorers. I wonder if it is by the same muralist.

Rafael Enrique Vega (@rafiquepr)

Originally from Ponce, Rafael Enrique Vega is currently associated with the School of Plastic Arts and Design of Puerto Rico. His mural is just off Avenida Fernando Juncos. Given it’s large size, I’ll show two images of it.

The mural replaced the one below, which I always thought honored a local cleric.

Unknown Artists

I don’t always see, or can’t decipher, signatures on the murals. For example, I see DE CERTOR on the mural below. But I find nothing relevant when I Google it.

The mural above replaced this one.

This mural is farther down the street, off of a parking lot.

It replaced this one. I can read the artist’s signature but I have not yet followed up in it. I like the perspective – note how large the hands seem.

I’ll show one more before and after. This is one a side street, just off of Calle Cerra.

Here is what was on that stretch of wall earlier. While the earlier work was interesting, I for some reason prefer the current mural.

Miscellaneous

Every neighborhood needs delivery trucks. The ones on Calle Cerra are different from other neighborhoods.

And every neighborhood needs a Ferreteria, hardware store. But the one on Calle Cerra is unique.

Notes and Sources

The images are mine. I use a digital point and shoot camera and use Adobe Lightroom and/or Photoshop for editing.

Google any of the artists names for more information about them.