IrMaria VIII – A New Normal?

Early November, 2018

Hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico during the evening and night of September 20, 2017. I arrived on November 15 and documented some of my observations in earlier posts. It is now early November of 2018. Here are some observations from 14 months post-Maria.

There has been obvious progress, at least here in San Juan. The traffic lights have all been restored. Most, but certainly not all, of the streetlights are working. Tourism is up. There were four cruise ships in port last Wednesday- I don’t remember seeing more than three on any day last winter, at least to the end of March.  The mass transit system – such as it is – is working at least as well as it was pre-Maria. There are still escalator outages at some urban train stations – but all the stations are open.

I’ve tried to revisit places I saw after I returned last November.  Here are a few last year to this year comparisons.

Parc Luis Munoz Rivera

This park, across the street from our building, has beautiful tree-lined walkways. Many of the trees suffered damage, with stripped vegetation and broken limbs. The banyan trees were particularly hard hit (see my earlier post about these amazing trees). There had been some cleanup before I arrived but there was still much to do,

 Walkways in Parc Luis Munoz Rivera, November 1917 (top) and a year later (bottom). The trees have regained much of their foliage but some were damaged beyond recovery.

Escambron

Playa Escambron, a city beach and park, was closed through December of last year. It opened on a diminished scale last January. It is completely open now.

Parc Escambron, looking towards Condado. The trash has been cleared but the lights have not been replaced.
The top image was taken last November after city crews had spent several weeks removing sand from the park roadway. The standing water is the bottom image, taken a few days ago, is the result of several days of rainy weather.

Condado

Condado is an area of large and small hotels, bars and restaurants, condominiums and apartment buildings. It is the main tourist area in San Juan outside of Old San Juan. Many of the buildings suffered damage – windows blown out, signs blown away. One of the large hotels (the Condado Plaza) was closed for several months. It is open now but still undergoing repairs.

A popular restaurant in Condado. I took these images from a seat in front of the Video Bar, a fine place to have a beer and people watch.


Pinones

I took a bus ride to Pinones, a beach area just east of San Juan with several small bars and restaurants. Maria tossed tons of sand up onto the beach, enough to close the road parallel to the coast. Some places reopened in October 2017; many are stilled closed.

Walkway and bicycle path in Pinones. Maria moved massive amounts of sand up onto the beach area, enough to close the road parallel to the coast.

Politics

The political fallout from Maria is ongoing. Perhaps that will be the subject of my next post.

IrMaria VII – Crimes (?), Miscreants, Recriminations

Late March, 2018

Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit Puerto Rico last September. There are still people without power, and they may not get it until May. And the new hurricane season is just around the cornet. Early predictions suggest a season much  like last summer. There is, as I write this, a Category 5 cyclone in the eastern Indian Ocean.

The image above shows utility trucks at the port, presumably waiting shipment back to the states. Some contractors (PowerSecure, Fluor Corporation) have come to the end of their funding and, with outages in smaller and smaller sections of the island, are leaving the work to the few remaining utilities and contractors.

Every day the newspapers have stories about some aspect of the recovery. Some of the stories are bizarre, some sad. According to one recent article, the island’s suicide rate rose by nearly 30 per cent in 2017, with half of the suicides in September and November. Calls to various mental health agencies were at record levels in December 2017 and January 2018, after a lull in October and November caused no doubt by the disruption in telecommunications caused by the hurricanes.

Men 40 to 50 years old are the most frequent victims of suicide, and hanging is the most common method. Puerto Rico has very tough gun laws. I wonder what the suicide rate would be if guns were readily available, and how the rate here compare to US states with their spectrum of gun laws.

Another article noted that 6 per cent of the island’s population fled in September, October, and November, after Hurricane Maria, which equates to 184,000 people. This is a continuation of the recent population decline as Puerto Ricans have moved to the mainland to seek better job opportunities. Some demographers are comparing the population decline here to Ireland in the 1840s, when 25 per cent of that island’s population fled during the Great Irish Famine.

Puerto Ricans have taken it upon themselves to use social media to identify problems. For example, citizens point out the location of power poles leaning over roadways, an effort made more urgent after a pole fell on a passing car and killed its two occupants. That occurred on PR-124 in Las Marias.

PREPA, the local power authority, is undergoing a series of investigations related to bribery charges. US Representative Rob Bishop (R-Utah) seemed particularly incensed by reports that gentleman’s clubs in San Juan were energized earlier than other businesses after bribes were paid to PREPA supervisors. Bishop wrote Zulma Rosario, Director of the Government Ethics Office here and asked for a full investigation. Rosario said of her investigation: “It continues to expand. The investigations are booming . . ”  and claims they are “running smoothly.” It is alleged that some supervisors were bribed with cash as well as thousands of dollars worth of vouchers usable at the clubs.

Meanwhile, the 2018 hurricane is approaching, and various agencies are releasing their early forecasts for the season. Professor David Dilley of Global Weather Oscillations seems to be on a roll. It is claimed he led the only prediction service that correctly forecast the very active 2017 season, as most other services predicted a more normal season. For 2018, Dilley and his group predict pretty much a repeat to 2017. He said “You can expect 16 named storms, eight hurricanes, four major hurricanes, potential for four United States hurricane landfalls – two of which will likely be major-impact storms. And once again – some Caribbean Islands will have another dangerous season.” By way of comparison, the Atlantic basin, during an average year, experiences 12 named storms, six hurricanes, and 2.7 major hurricanes.

I’m not sure how Dilley can be this specific, especially as to landfall predictions. But it is true that there is already one Category 5 storm this year. The cyclone season has started in the western Pacific. Marcus is 2018’s first category 5 tropical storm. Marcus is no danger to land and will veer to the southwest over cooler waters, leading to her destruction.

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Tropical Cyclone Marcus off the northwestern coast of Australia. Marcus is 2018’s first category 5 tropical storm.

So 2018 will be another interesting year for hurricanes. I hope Puerto Rico is spared – they have suffered enough.

And if you were wondering if I ran into any PREPA supervisors haunting San Juan’s exotic clubs, kindly disabuse yourself of that notion. I have not yet been to any exotic club here in Puerto Rico. I don’t even know where they are. I do see an occasional cab advertising one of them – Lips, if you can believe that. So I’m sure it would be an easy thing to hail a cab and get there.

As I write these words, however, I recognize that a visit to a gentleman’s club would be excellent material for a blog post or two. Trust me, my visit would be academic only, perhaps a cross-cultural sociological comparison of exotic clubs in San Juan, San Francisco, Dallas, New York, Washington, Montreal.

I feel a whole new research career coming on. If you want to support my scholarly efforts, or perhaps conduct a research trip with me, let me know.

 

Notes and Sources: The news sections are summaries of recent articles in the San Juan Star, the English language newspaper.

The cyclone image is from NASA, via a blog post at www.wunderground.com, an excellent source for weather information and discussions.

 

 

The Pablo Casals Festival

Mid March, 2018

We went to the final concert of the 2018 Pablo Casals festival the other night. It was a wonderful performance in a beautiful venue. We had talked about going several times but never got around to it. A friend enticed us to go, and even bought our tickets. We’re glad she did.

Pablo Casals was born in in 1876 in Catalonia, Spain, to a Spanish father and a Puerto Rican mother of Catalonian descent.  His father, an organist and choir master, provided his early musical education. At the age of four, Casals could play the violin, piano and flute; at six he played a violin solo in public. He first saw a primitive cello-type instrument when a traveling musician played in his town. Casals saw his first real cello at age eleven and decided then to dedicate himself to the instrument.

Casals’ talents were noticed, and at age 12 he entered the Escola Municipal de Musica in Barcelona, where he studied cello, piano, and theory. He graduated with honors at age 17. In 1893, the Spanish composer Isaac Albeniz heard him playing in a trio in a cafe and introduced him to Maria Cristiana, the Queen Regent.  She provided him a stipend to study composition at the Royal College in Madrid, as well as to play in informal concerts at the palace.

Casals moved to Paris where he made a living playing second cello at the Folies Marigny, but returned to Spain after a year and played as principal cellist at the opera in Barcelona. His international career began after he performed as a soloist with the Madrid symphony, with performances at the Crystal Palace in London and for President Theodore Roosevelt in Washington.

Casals was a passionate supporter of the Spanish Republican government and went into exile after they were defeated and vowed to stay in exile until democracy was restored. Not only that, he refused to play in any country whose government supported Franco’s totalitarian regime. He did make one exception – he played at the White House for President Kennedy, whom he admired.

Casals moved to Puerto Rico, and became prominent in the musical culture here. He started the Casals festival in 1955, helped organize the Puerto Rico National Symphony in 1958, and, in 1959, helped start the Conservatory of Music in Puerto Rico. In 1956, at age 80, he took as his third wife Marta Montanez y Martinez, then 20 years old. He remained musically active during his later years. He was once asked why he, at age 93, still played his instrument three hours each day. He replied: “I’m beginning to notice some improvement.” Casals died in San Juan in 1973, at age 96. Franco was still in power so he was buried here, but six years later, with Franco gone, his remains were moved to his childhood home of El Vendrell, in Catalonia.

So we were at the 63rd Casals Festival. It is a multiday event, with performances at different venues around the city. The performance we attended was at the Centro de Bellas Artes, which is to San Juan what Lincoln Center is to New York City. The CBA, as it is known, consists of a central plaza surrounded by three large performance venues. As patrons arrive, they are greeted by bronze representations of the Muses, representing the activities in the center.

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The Muses on the plaza of the Centro de Bellas Artes, San Juan.

The Muses, of course, originate in Greek mythology. One version has them as the daughters of Zeus and Mnemosyne. There were seven of them, each with a symbol of their artistic endeavors: Calliope (poetry, writing tablet), Clio (history, scroll), Euterpe (lyric poetry, flute), Thalia (comedy, comic mask), Melpomene (tragedy, tragic mask), Terpsichore (dance, lyre), Erato (love poetry, lyre), Polyhmynia (sacred poetry, veil) and Urania (astronomy, compass). As the image below suggests, the statues here take some liberties with the traditional representations.

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A Muse representing the film and video arts, Centro de Bellas Artes, San Juan.

We heard the orchestra in in one work, Sinfonia No. 4 by Roberto Sierra, and the orchestra and San Juan Philharmonic Chorale in Mozart’s Requiem. Sierra is a contemporary Puerto Rican composer, currently on the faculty at Cornell. His piece was enjoyable – tonal, full of interesting rhythms, sometimes lively, at times sad. I’m glad I heard it but I’m not sure I will rush out and buy the CD.

The Requiem was wonderful. The chorus was well prepared, the four soloists were good (especially Joel Prieto, the tenor) and the orchestra was excellent. Combine that with an attentive audience in a wonderful venue and you had a most enjoyable evening.

I enjoy going to concerts like this though I must admit I sometimes become a bit wistful when  I hear a pianist. Everyone else in my family – wife, son, daughter – plays. I started piano lessons when I was in the first or second grade at the Kemble Street School in Utica. I did pretty well – I could see I was picking things up faster than most of my class mates.

But we did not have a piano at home. My mother had played as a child and probably wanted one, but we were in a small house and my parents were dealing with a growing family and aging parents. My parents, at a parent – teacher conference, learned of my nascent pianistic skills, and in the best traditions of parents everywhere decided to support my studies. My mother went out and found a small, used pump organ, small enough to fit in our house.

So I practiced on the pump organ. At the next conference, my parents learned that, while I was making good progress, I kept bouncing up and down on the piano bench, somewhat to the detriment of my emerging artistry.

My father was quick to recognize the issue and worked out a solution, in his very best Rube Goldberg fashion. He found an old vacuum cleaner, hung it from the cellar ceiling, and ran a tube from the vacuum cleaner’s exhaust through the floor and into the organ. Problem solved! When I wanted to practice, I went down in the cellar and plugged the vacuum cleaner in, and went upstairs and practiced.

There were two problems, one minor, and one major. The minor one: I could hear the whine of the vacuum cleaner, which did nothing for my ear training. The major one: the vacuum cleaner did not produce very much air. Only the notes above middle C sounded when I pressed the keys. As I’m sure you know, the notes above middle C are usually in the domain of the right hand; the notes below belong to the left. I got pretty good with the right hand, but the left, since I could not hear the notes, remained a mystery.

A vacuum cleaner of the sort my father hung on our cellar ceiling to provide air for a small pump organ.

So when I watch a pianist I often wonder what would have happened if we had had a piano at home. Or a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Perhaps I’d have been a soloist at the Casals Festival.

It is funny the way things work out.

Oh, and we’re going to the CBA again this week, this time to see a touring company production of Les Miserables. Should be fun.

 

Notes and Sources: See Wikipedia entries for Pablo Casals and Greek Muses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ironman? or Maybe FerroCaballero?

Mid March 2018

 

The Puerto Rico Tourism Company co-sponsors a half-Ironman event every spring here in San Juan. This year, it was on March 18. Most of the activities start or end in the park near our building so it is easy for me to visit and see what’s going on. In particular, I wondered if participation would be down this year.

In a true Ironman event, athletes start with a three mile swim, transition to a 112 mile bike ride, and finish by running a full marathon of 26.2 miles. The event here, a half Ironman, cuts each event in half to a total of 70.3 miles. So the event is called the Puerto Rico Ironman 70.3.

The event begins with a 1.5 mile swim, down and around the Condado Lagoon, under the bridge connectiong Condado to Old San Juan and ending near the still-closed Caribe Hilton.

Athletes ready to start the swim portion of the Puerto Rico half Ironman, March 2018.

While some competitors look pensive, for many it is a party atmosphere. Note the woman in the blue suit, with the 485 on her arm. She was, by my observation, the only competitor to come with full make-up. I wonder how it lasted during the swim.

The starters go off in waves, at 5 minute intervals. The elite men and women go first, followed by groups according to age and gender. When a group’s appointed time comes, they enter the water and wait for the horn to start their event.

Swimmers entering the water and beginning their swim. The lower right panel shows the race leader getting just as he is going under the bridge which connects Condado to Old San Juan..

 

The swim start is quite intense, as you can imagine, with 40 or 50 closely bunched swimmers.

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They are guided through the course by orange course markers, and volunteers in kayaks assist as needed.

The swimmers exit the water via a ramp up to the Paseo de Caribe, Volunteers assist them on the steep ramp.

Swimmers being helped up the ramp to the Paseo de Caribe. They will run to the transition zone where they will get ready to start their bike ride.

After exiting the water, the swimmers run to the transition zone where they prepare for the 56 mile bike ride. They have previously arranged their gear to help make the transition as smooth and fast as possible.

Athletes making their way to the transition zone to begin their bike ride. The woman on the lower left must feel good about her swim as she seems to be walking on air.

The competitors use a variety of bike styles, most with aerodynamic frames and wheels. I’m sure some of the carbon fiber models cost well over $4,000. If you assume an average cost of each bike at $2,000, that means the value of the bikes in the transition zone approaches several hundred thousand dollars,

Bikes stored in anticipation of athletes making the transition from the swim to the bike segment of the half Ironman. The lower right panel shows a bike after the event. The frame is made of carbon fiber.

The bike event starts and ends at the transition zone. It was a good day for biking – warm for sure but only a slight breeze.

 

Athletes during the biking leg of the half-Ironman.

After the bike ride, which goes to Dorado and back, the contestants run into and back from Old San Juan. They do this twice for a total of 13.2 miles.

Ironman contestants on the final leg, a half marathon into and back from Old San Juan.

Later that afternoon, I went by the tent where the closing ceremonies were being held. It seems several of the sponsors are donating money for Puerto Rico recovery efforts. For example, one sponsor pledged $50,000 to help with solar installations. another $75,000 for reforestation efforts. In addition, 125 participants volunteered to spend Monday in Toa Baja, working on five different projects, including the restoration of a park and baseball field.

So it was a good day in San Juan. The event was very well run, there were participants from several countries, and everyone seemed to enjoy their time here. It was a welcome respite from the on-going issues surrounding the recovery efforts here. More on that in my next post.

Oh, and I think the name should be FerroCaballero, not Ironman. It has a nice ring to it. What do you think?

 

 

 

 

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Street Art – Recent Sightings

Mid March 2018

 

As you may have noted from recent posts, I very much enjoy the street art here in San Juan. I’m writing today to share some recent sightings, and to share how I use some of the images I obtain of the art.

The image above is from a non-descript building in Pinones, a beach area just east of San Juan. There are many small bars and seafood restaurants there and it is a nice place to stroll along the beach before a lunch of ensalada de pulpo – octupus salad, a favorite of mine. Note the image is as taken from my camera and before any editing.  Still, it brings questions to my mind. The art, to me, evokes the Indian sub-continent, Now, to my knowledge, there are not very many people here from the that part of the world here. So why the Indian theme?

To be sure, there are people from the Indian sub-continent in the Caribbean. The British abolished slavery in the 1820s and sugar cane plantation owners needed cheap labor. Plantation owners on the British-held islands imported indentured servants from India, among other places. There is a substantial Indian population on, for example, Trinidad and Tobago because of that. But that did not happen in Puerto Rico, where slavery was not abolished until the 1870s. So I’m not sure why the Indian theme exists.

I have noted one other example of Indian-inspired wall art. That was on a wall in an alleyway in Vieques, an island just to the east of Puerto Rico, Note the image below is also as taken from the camera and not edited in any way.

Wall art in an alley way in Isabella Sequnda, the capital of Vieques.

Here is one more, again unedited, image from Santurce, near the Plazita del Mercado.

Art from a bridge abutment in Santurce, San Juan.

One more example. This is in Condado, and it is on a shutter that has been closed since Hurricane Maria. I don’t know if the painting was there prior to the storm or was created afterwards. The shutter is on the former Pinky’s, a popular breakfast place.

Wall art on shutter along sidewalk in Condado, San Juan.

The images become a record of sorts of the wall art I see. The two examples below no longer exist. The large bird (note the ice cooler to give an idea of its size) has been painted over. The hat-bearing skull was on a building that has been demolished, part of the on-going gentrification of Santurce.

Two examples of wall art that have since disappeared.

I’ve mentioned the images are unedited.  I do edit some of them. Below are two images, one as taken from the camera and the other after some judicious edits. The original was on a wall just off Calle Loiza, in Santurce. The images show the results of some modest edits – basically cropping, retouching and color enhancements.

Edited image as compared to image as taken from camera. Wall art was just off of Calle Loiza, Santurce.

Sometimes the editing is more involved. The image below shows five images taken of a large mural, and the final version after stitching edited images together. I use two Adobe products for this – Photoshop and InDesign.

Unedited and edited version of large example of wall art along Avenida Ferdinand Juncos in Santurce, San Juan.

So what do I do with the edited images? I use InDesign and create montages. Here are two examples.

 

 

I had one of these printed and framed and we use it in our San Juan apartment. I don’t know if I could sell them. I would have to research copyright laws. I have thought about using some of my images as post and note cards and hawking them to cruise ship passengers. Want to invest? Let me know.

Winter Storm Riley

Early March, 2018

We watched The Weather Channel’s coverage of Winter Storm Riley, the fierce nor’easter that pummeled the east coast the first week of March. I sat with friends drinking beer at an outdoor plaza and told and listened to stories of notable storms we had lived through. We were quite sure we were far enough away from Riley that we would not suffer any consequences of it.

We were wrong. I noticed on Saturday afternoon that the wind had shifted and was coming from the west. This was unusual.  Winds from the east are far more common during the winter trade winds season. The sky became progressively more cloudy and hazy, and the wind picked up. Sunday morning was cloudy and hazy, and the surf had picked up considerably, The image above was taken on Sunday morning, looking west along the north shore into Old San Juan. Hundreds of Puerto Ricans gathered on walkway along the shore. They watched the surf and took thousands of pictures and videos. I imagine many of the images were sent to relatives around the island, and maybe even to the states.

The high surf lasted from Sunday morning through mid Wednesday. The winds  caused thirty foot waves north of Puerto Rico, and there was heavy surf along the north and west coasts. It was said to be the highest surf observed here in over a decade, and  was worse than in either Hurricane Irma or Maria. The Coast Guard had to rescue a surfer who had suffered a fractured wrist, and had to rescue three other swimmers as well.

As you might imagine, the high surf brought out people to watch and in many cases record what they saw. Some posted their videos to Youtube.  Rincon, a surfers haven on the west coast, experienced 30 foot waves. Watch here. Limestone rocks provide a barrier to the surf at Vega Baja – watch here. Watch the high surf at Isabella, on the northwest coast, here.

As you can imagine, the west winds and high surf caused damages. The road from San Juan heading east along the coast to Loiza was closed because of the tons of sand pushed ashore. The ferry boat terminal in Catano was damaged. Ferry service from there to San Juan was suspended but has since been restored. The Paseo de Princessa, the walkway along the harbor outside the city walls, is now closed, awaiting repairs. The waves were high enough to overtop the walkway and strong enough to undermine the foundation, causing a partial collapse.

Damages to Paseo de Princessa from early March storm. Note sand on walkway, broken concrete barriers, disrupted rip-rap, and , in the lower right, the remains of the destroyed dock.

Paseo de Princessa in better days.

So we were not free from the effects of Winter Storm Riley, Still, I liked watching high surf a whole lot better than shoveling wet, heavy snow.

Irmaria VII Early March Update – Puerto Rican Citizenship

March 2, 2018

March 2 is now a holiday here in Puerto Rico. So while, as I write this, the Northeast is being pummeled by Winter Storm Riley, now undergoing ‘bombogenesis’, Puerto Ricans are experiencing great weather and a day off.

The holiday celebrates the anniversary of United States Citizenship for Puerto Ricans. The Jones-Shafroth Act was signed into law on March 2, 1917. One provision of the Act made Puerto Ricans United States citizens but did not rescind their Puerto Rican citizenship. The Puerto Rican statesman Luis Munoz Rivera participated in the drafting of the Jones-Shafroth Act and argued in favor of Puerto Rican citizenship. In a speech to the U. S. House of Representatives, he said “if the earth were to swallow the island, Puerto Ricans would prefer American citizenship to any citizenship in the world. But as long as the island existed, the residents preferred Puerto Rican citizenship.”

The fact of U.S. citizenship did come with caveats. Puerto Ricans cannot vote in the U.S. presidential elections, and have no representatives in Congress. The U. S. Supreme Court, in the 1922 case Balzac v. Porto Rico (as it was called then), ruled that the full protection and rights of the U. S. Constitution do not apply to Puerto Ricans unless and until they choose to reside in the U.S. proper. However, Puerto Ricans became eligible for the draft and 20,000 young men were drafted into service during World War One. Most ended up in infantry regiments guarding the Panama Canal. Puerto Rican representation in the U. S. armed services is certainly a story worth telling. Perhaps it will be the subject on my next post.

I wonder if, in view of the aftermath of Hurricane Irma and Maria, Puerto Ricans are having second thoughts about their relationship with the U.S. I doubt it. The people we talk to appreciate the fact we are here and are quick to distinguish between us and the government. I must say that Donald Trump is universally reviled here – in fact t-shirts with F**K DONALD TRUMP are a big seller.

A sunset from our balcony.

The slow pace of the recovery here has much to do with Mr. Trump’s poor standing. Every day the local newspapers have stories detailing some aspect of the recovery efforts. For example, on February 28, the San Juan Star’s lead story described how contractors involved in power restoration are beginning to leave. This is in spite of the fact that 20% of the customers are still without power.

The US Army Corps of Engineers is in charge of the federal effort for power restoration. They let large contracts with two companies – Fluor Corporation and PowerSecure. This was after the Whitefish Energy debacle, which ended with the USACE cancelling a $300 million contract without any work having been done.

About 1,000 workers have left the island in the last two weeks. Fluor has already billed the maximum amount it can, $750 million dollars, and has told its subcontractors to pack up. PowerSource’s contract ends on April 7 so it too is winding down.

Officials overseeing the contractors’ work expressed disappointment with the performance of the contractors. In particular, Fluor was cited for sluggish work and ending the contract with less accomplished than had been hoped. Justo Gonzalez, interim head of PREPA, the Puerto Rican utility, said of Fluor: “We compared, and saw better work from other companies.” Jorge Gonzalez, the mayor of Jayuya, a mountain community with about 50% power restoration, said: “I understand they [Fluor] were slow – super slow. Now we don’t have anyone, slow or at all. We have no one.”

Of course, all of this is happening in the context of the ongoing fiscal crisis. Judge Juan R. Torruella of the United States Court of Appeals for the First Circuit in Boston has suggested that a federal grand jury be empaneled to, in his words, ‘. . . determine if there are criminal cases against individuals and organizations inside and outside of Puerto Rico in relation to the economic crisis facing the country.”

Torruella, a native San Juan, received a Bachelor of Science degree from the Wharton School (I wonder if Trump was there at the same time) and a law degree from Boston University. He was appointed by President Ford in 1974 to a seat on the United States District Court for the District of Puerto Rico, and then by President Reagan, in 1984, to his current position.

A rainbow over a cruise ship entering Old San Juan.

There are other stories. The storm death toll is still unknown and stateside epidemiologists are helping to establish a firm figure for that grim statistic. The US Treasury, for unknown reasons, cut a disaster relief loan request for Puerto Rico by 60%. The police are owed millions in unpaid overtime accrued during and after Hurricane Maria. And on and on.

By the way, the images in this post have nothing to do with the content. So please don’t waste your time looking for deep symbolism. Trust me, there is none.

IrMaria VI – Mid February Update

Mid February 2018

 

Hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico on September 20, 2017, just about five months ago. The recovery has been slow. As of two days ago, 25 percent of the people here were still without power. That’s about three quarters of a million people. That is more than the population of Washington, DC, or Baltimore, or Boston. Can you imagine the outcry if any of those cities were without power for five months?

We live in San Juan and the power was restored to our building in mid November. We were lucky – a friend in Old San Juan had to wait until just before Thanksgiving. Another friend, in a near suburb, had to wait until mid January.

But there have been problems here. All of Old San Juan suffered a blackout last Sunday night, the result of a fire at a substation. Friends of ours renting in Ocean Park have had intermittent power outages. A few weeks before, we were in a movie theater in Miramar. The power went out during the previews. We finished our popcorn in the eerie glow of the emergency lighting. The power came back on in time for the movie to start, but went off again after about twenty minutes. The theater gave us a rain check to come back another time. What movie were we trying to see, you ask? Darkest Hour, what else could it have been?

Con Ed crews at work in Condado on Christmas Eve Day. I’m sure they worked the next day as well.

The utilities are still here in force. They have moved the staging areas for their equipment out of Old San Juan so we don’t see the convoys of utility trucks. The linemen are still in the major hotels and so we do see the busses carrying them to their equipment each morning before dawn, and returning just after dark. I ran into a National Grid lineman the other evening in a bar in Old San Juan. He was from Utica, where I grew up, so we had a nice chat. He said they had been working in Rio Piedras, one of the poorer sections of San Juan, for three weeks and had just moved to the Trujillo Alta, a town in the foothills of the central mountains. He, like every utility worker I have talked with, noted how grateful the residents were, offering water, lunch and other treats.

The utility workers are here for four weeks and are then replaced by a new wave of crews. I heard there are two National Grid guys from Croghan, where we have our summer home, here now. I’m sure I’ll run into them at some point, here or there, and compare notes. It should be interesting.

The National Grid guys from Croghan are leaving scenes like this to come here.

I was on a flight from Philadelphia to San Juan in early February. There were about 50 people from Pennsylvania Power and Light heading here for their first rotation. They are staying in condos in Palmas del Mar, in Humacao, on the east coast. It is a beautiful spot but I doubt they will have much chance to enjoy it. They were a bit anxious and full of questions – was there price gouging? (no); how was the weather? (beautiful); would they be accepted by the people? (yes). I hope their work is going smoothly.

An example of the weather the utility guys are experiencing here.

As you might expect, the slow pace of the recovery has engendered stories and rumors. Some residents believe our building manager took advantage of a friend he knew in the power authority to get power back to our building as early as it did. Curiously, the apartment buildings on either side of us were still running on generators into December. The English language newspaper, the San Juan Star, has reported that some PREPA (the Spanish acronym for the power utility) supervisors allegedly asked for money (up to $10,000) to facilitate power restoration in certain neighborhoods.

Some government departments, while overwhelmed with work, seem to be making progress. The  number of intersections with working traffic lights is increasing slowly but steadily. I don’t know what DTOP’s (Spanish acronym for Department of Transportation) protocol is for deciding which intersections to work on, but it does seem the busiest intersections have received attention. I did see a DTOP crew working at an intersection on Avenida Ponce de Leon, the main commercial street through San Juan, the other day.

There are disputes about other issues. For example, the death toll from the two hurricanes has yet to be firmly established. It was originally announced as 54 deaths. The governor, Ricardo Rossello Navares, established a commission to generate an official tabulation. The enabling executive order, promulgated in January, created a working group to establish the official death toll. A report is due in March, but the slow pace of the group’s efforts, and the secrecy surrounding it, caused the Center for Investigative Journalism to sue Wanda Llovet Diaz, director of the Puerto Rico Demographic Registry for access to the data. There has as of yet been no resolution to the law suit. The  mayor of Morovis, a town in the mountains, claims there were 70  storm-related deaths there. It will be interesting to see how this compares to the official registry when it is published.

After Maria, several mainland universities opened their doors to Puerto Rican students. For example, Brown University sent a private jet and transported 40 students to Providence for a year’s study, at no cost to the students. Cornell is hosting 58, New York University about 50, and Tulane enrolled 16 students from Puerto Rico, among other universities.  Professors at the University of Puerto Rico are worried the students won’t return. The program is modeled on programs put in place for students after Hurricane Katrina, but, as has been noted here, UPR opened five weeks after the hurricane, while schools in New Orleans were closed for months.

All of this is happening as the island is working through its financial dilemma. The Oversight and Management Board, put in place as a result of legislation signed by President Obama, has been busy. The Board (PROMESA by its Spanish acronym) selected Citibank Global Markets to oversee the restructuring and privatization PREPA, the island’s utility.  PROMESA has also proposed that government pensions for retired government works (there are about 160,000 of them) be cut by 25%. As you can imagine, the unions representing the workers are upset by that idea.

Roof work on a building as seen from our balcony. The work has been in progress for four months now.

Residents of San Juan are also worried about the status of the city’s parks. Residents around Parc Centrale asked for and got an official hearing as to why the park is still closed. Parc Centrae has playing fields, open spaces and a walkway along a canal.

Parc Centrale in better days. My brother and sister-in-law were interested in birds. I was far more interested in the iguanas in the mangroves.

But there are some positive signs. Pura Energia, a local affiliate of Sonnen, a global leader in microgrid systems, commissioned a solar + battery system for the K-9 school in the remote mountain town of Orocovis. The solar panels will generate enough power to keep the school open without having to connect to the grid, which in any case is not yet possible because Orocovis is without power and will be for at least several weeks. This is the tenth system installed by Sonnen and Puria Energia since Hurricane Maria, with funding supplied by the del Sol Foundation for Energy Security.

Oh, and there was a car show here this past weekend. Some beautiful cars for sure. And I got my picture taken with a movie star. More on that later, maybe. And no, it was not Stormy Daniels.

Some of the cars on display at the Puerto Rico car show, February 2018.

 

 

 

IrMaria V – Banyan Trees?

Late December, 2017

In an earlier post I mentioned the banyan trees in Old San Juan had been particularly hard hit by Hurricanes Irma and Maria. It turns out I was a bit premature in making that statement, for a couple of reasons.

Now, I must admit, I don’t know much about trees. This has been a source of some embarrassment, especially given my pre-retirement position as a faculty member at the New York State College of Environmental Science and Forestry. Many times, when making conversation with strangers, they would ask where I worked. They usually got all excited when I told them. Their eyes lit up, and they said “Oh great. I have this tree in my backyard . . .” When I told them I did  not know much about trees, they looked at me quizzically and said “Well then, what do you do there?” When I replied that I might know a bit about water, they invariably said “That’s not the problem. The tree gets plenty of water.”

This happened to me again and again, in coffee shops, dive bars and pre-symphony cocktail receptions. I vowed to learn more about trees, but I admit I never got around to it. I was just too busy building my wall. My willful ignorance has now come back to haunt me, in the form of banyan trees.

I first noticed what I thought was a banyan tree in a botanical garden on the island of Dominica. I vaguely recalled they were native to the Indian sub-continent. It was there with a Norfolk pine (from Norfolk Island, in the southwest Pacific, another introduced species) and several other specimen trees as well.

I recognized trees I thought were banyan trees in several places around San Juan.  I learned that many of these trees have been introduced to tropical areas around the world as ornamental trees. In fact, Parc Luis Munoz Rivera, across the street from our building, is known for its many banyan trees. They line some of the walkways and provide welcome shade to the park goers. I have, on occasion, sat on a bench under the canopy of what I thought was a  banyan tree and thought great thoughts, or at least my version of great thoughts. The botanical problem is they may not have been banyan trees, at least in the strictest use of that term.

Banyan trees are examples of fig trees, and fig trees have been around for a long time. Some biblical scholars argue that a fig, and not an apple, was the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden. The Latin words for apple and evil are the same: malum, and it may have been the Latin bibles that spread during the Middle Ages that caused the change of fruit in the creation story.

 Mithra, a Persian deity and Judge of Souls, was born under a fig tree, and figs were his first meal. In Kenya, the Kikuyu’s creation story starts in a grove of fig trees. On Guam, ancestral spirits (taotaomonas) live in the roots of fig trees. In Australia, aboriginal peoples know of the yara-ma-yha-who, a man-like vampire that lives in fig trees and preys on unwary travelers.  The Greeks have multiple stories concerning fig trees. In one, the fertility goddess Demeter created figs to repay King Phytalus for his help as she sought Persephone, her lost daughter.

Some time during the sixth to fourth century BC, a prince was born to a royal family in what is now Nepal. As he matured, Siddhartha Gautama began to wonder about the sickness and death he saw all around him. He left his home, wife and child at the age of 29 to wander the world in search of meaning. He studied under wise men but was not satisfied with their teachings. Six years into his journey, he arrived at a forest in what is now the  Indian state of Bihar. He sat under a fig tree and vowed not to leave until he reached inner peace. According to legend, he stayed there for six days and six nights; on the seventh day he found enlightenment and became the Buddha. He taught a Middle Way between sensual indulgence and the strict asceticism of his time.

Somewhat later, around 325 BC, Alexander the Great, having conquered most of the known world, turned his attention to India. As a scholar as well as a military leader, Alexander brought naturalists with him. They were intrigued by what they discovered – colorful birds, monkeys, exotic snakes, but nothing matched their interest in the banyan tree, large trees with multiple trunk-like roots. Alexander’s colleague Nearchus estimated 10,000 soldiers could get shade from one banyan tree.Alexander and his retinue of naturalists brought news of the unusual tree back to Athens where the Greek philosopher Theophrastus, a student of Aristotle, learned of it. Theophrastus (371 – 287 BC) had already become intrigued by figs; he observed carefully the trees that produced edible figs and noted that the soil and climate and tiny insects seemed to determine the quality of the figs. His observations were sound in this and other matters; he is known as the father of modern botany. He described the banyan tree: “The Indian land has its so-called “fig tree”, which drops its roots from its branches every year . . the fruit is very small, only as large as a chickpea, and it resembles a fig.’

A banyan tree in Pakistan. The tree’s columnar trunk-like roots allow the tree to spread; some old banyan trees cover up to two hectares.

Theophrastus did not call the fig tree from India a banyan tree; that came later. Portuguese traders noticed that the Hindu merchants (banya in the Gujarati language) they dealt with gathered under the fig trees described by Theophrastus. The Portuguese used banya for the merchants but it was soon generalized to became the name of the tree under which the merchants gathered.

The Swedish botanist, physician and zoologist Carl Linnaeus (1707- 1778), the father of taxonomy, denominated figs into the genus Ficus, with species names as appropriate. The banyan tree became Ficus benghalensis; the fig tree under which Buddha sat Ficus religiosa; the edible fig Theophrastus studied Ficus carica.  Linnaeus named seven Ficus species. There are now more than 750 known Ficus species.

Systematic taxonomy is one thing, but understanding the life cycle and ecology of fig trees another. One mystery was that fig trees, while producing a fruit-like fig, never seemed to display flowers. Ancient Hindu and Buddhist texts used the phrase ‘seeking flowers in a fig tree’ as we use looking for a needle in a haystack. A Tamil language proverb describes how a fig tree’s ‘flowers bloom secretly and fruits flourish visually’. We now know a fig is a hollow ball, the inner surface of which has flowers that never see daylight. How these flowers get pollinated and produce seeds is a complex and fascinating story In itself.

A fig wasp of the species Idames.

Like all plants, fig trees have evolved ways to put energy into making seeds, and strategies to aid in their dispersal. Fig trees have co-evolved with insects, usually fig wasps, relatives of the small insects Theophrastus observed. When a fig ripens, a female fig wasp, only about 2 mm long, responds to some unknown cue and emerges from a small hole in the fig. She is laden with hundreds of fertilized eggs and she must find a fig tree of the same species. She also carries pollen from the flowers within the ripe fig.

Her journey is perilous. Upon first emergence, predatory ants and other insects lay in wait. If she is able to take flight, she has to contend with other predators – dragon flies, bats, birds. The fig trees emit a combination of chemicals unique to its species; the fig wasp navigates towards them and thus finds the correct species of fig tree. Each species of fig tree has one, rarely two, species of fig wasps adapted to its reproductive needs.

The flight of some fig wasps have been shown to be as long as 160 km – awesome for an insect only 2 mm long, but it is the last centimeter of her travels that are the most crucial. The wasp lands on a fig less ripe that the one she left, and locates a tiny hole at the tip. She pulls herself into the fig, shedding her antennae and wings in the process, and using her wedge like jaws to assist. Once inside the fig, and assuming no predators lie in wait, she walks along a carpet of fig flowers. Some get pollinated, into others she deposits a fertilized egg. The pollinated flowers produce one seed each; the others become nurseries for the larval forms of the wasp’s offspring.

After some weeks, the larvae, one per egg-bearing flower, reach sexual maturity. The males live a short life; they burrow out of their galls and find a gall with a female inside. They use a tube on their abdomen to drill through the gall and deliver sperm to the female. Some species of fig wasps are active pollinators – a male, after inseminating the female, uses its jaws to harvest the pollen-bearing stalks of the fig’s male flowers. As the females emerge, they use their forelegs to harvest the pollen and store it in pollen pockets, cavities on their chest.

The females, now laden with eggs and pollen, need to emerge from the fig to start the cycle again. The males, in their last act, team up and chew a hole in the fig’s wall. The males emerge first, perhaps sacrificing themselves to predators to increase the female’s chances of survival. The females emerge and, if all goes well, fly away to another fig tree, leaving behind a fig with seeds ready to be dispersed.

Each fig species has evolved its own pollination strategy. In some, the male and female flowers are on different trees. In others, the pollination is passive, almost by accident, rather than the active pollination described above. But however the fig seeds become pollinated, they need to be dispersed. Again, various strategies have evolved to meet this need. And fruit-eating animals play a crucial role.

The ripe figs, with their payload of seeds, are a source of food for many animals, some of which help disperse the seeds. Green pigeons, for example, eat figs but their gizzards grind the seeds to nothingness. Other animals, gibbons, orangutans, flying foxes (really bats), many birds species, eat the figs and the seeds pass unharmed through the digestive tract, to be dispersed with their feces. One spectacular fig-eater and seed dispenser is the rhinoceros hornbill, native to Borneo.

A rhinoceros hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros), one of many animals that feed on ripe figs and disperse their seeds. This image was originally posted to Flickr by David Berkowitz at https://flickr.com/photos/25897810@N00/9049988503. It was reviewed on 15 March 2016 by FlickreviewR and was confirmed to be licensed under the terms of the cc-by-2.0.

The location of the dispersed seed is crucial. Take, for example, Ficus stupenda, a fig tree native to Malaysia. This species begins life as an epiphyte and so the seed has to land in a knothole, crock, crack, crotch of a host tree, with appropriate moisture and organic matter. And the height on the host tree is important with different optimal heights for different fig species. The seed germinates by sending a shoot up with two leaves, and a root down the trunk of the host tree into the soil. Shoots beget shoots, roots beget roots, and soon the fig tree becomes established. Some epiphytic figs grow so many roots and branches they strangle the host tree and have earned the name strangler fig. Ficus benghalensis, the true banyan tree, is an example of a strangler fig.

An uprooted banyan (?) tree in Old San Juan, just up from the San Juan Gate.

So I wondered what kind of trees I had been seeing. Clearly, they were not true banyan trees. It turns out there are three species of figs introduced and found in Puerto Rico, all of which are often planted as ornamentals for shade in public plazas. The most common of these is Ficus retusa, characterized by a short runk and globular crown, small, dark green, elliptical leaves, and numerous aerial roots about the trunk. Some of them might be Ficus elastica, also known as the India-rubber fig.

So know I know, or at least think I know. I was sitting under a fig tree, not a true banyan tree, and neither was it the same kind of tree Buddha sat under. That goes a long way in explaining why my  excuse for great thoughts will never be as profound as his. At least, that’s my current theory.

Notes and Sources: See Wikipedia entries for banyan tree, fig wasp, fig tree, fig tree pollination.

Much of the information about fig trees and their natural and cultural history is from Gods, Wasps, and Stranglers, a delightful series of essays by Mike Shanahan, a tropical forest ecologist. It is available from Chelsea Green Publishing, White RIver Junction, Vermont. It was published in 2016.

Identification of the fig trees in Puerto Rico is from Common Trees of Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, by Elbert Little and Frank Wadsworth. It was published by the US Department of Agriculture in 1964, as Agriculture Handbook No. 249. Thanks to my neighbor Lucilla Marvel for loaning me her copy.

IrMaria IV – Open for Tourism

December 14, 2017

Yesterday the Puerto Rican government declared Puerto officially ‘open for tourism’. According to the San Juan Star, an English language newspaper here, more than 100 hotels are open, as are more than 4,000 restaurants. There are 60 excursions for cruise ship passengers to choose from. I wonder if this includes the guy who hangs around the piers with an iguana, charging a few bucks to have his picture taken. There will be more than 70 port calls by various cruise ships between now and the end of January. Nearly 100,000 passengers will arrive and start and end their cruises on the four or five ships home ported here, again by the end of January.

As if on cue, two large cruise ships came into port yesterday afternoon, the Holland America Eurodam and the Royal Caribbean Oasis of the Seas. The tour busses were lined up, as were the vendors stalls along the pier and through much of Old San Juan. Passengers had to be back on board at about 10 PM so the cruise people had time to wander around Old San Juan. The Walgreens and CVS pharmacies were both busy. I’m not sure what the attraction is but the two waterfront locations are busy every time a cruise ship is in port.

Tour busses lined up waiting for cruise ship passengers to disembark.

Before IrMaria, tourism accounted for about 16% of the island’s economy, which is less than I would have thought. The biggest sector is manufacturing, at about 48%, and pharmaceuticals figure heavily in that category. Puerto Rico has become a packaging center for drug companies, who ship their products here for packaging for final distribution. There was concern that, after IrMaria, there would be a shortage of some drugs; fortunately, that was not the case.

The government wants to grow tourism to about 20% of the economy. That seems doable to me, but I wonder how tourism in Cuba will affect tourism here. I can see Cuba competing for cruise ship port calls and otherwise attempt to attract tourists there.

Vendors set up along the pier waiting to serve cruise ship passengers.

But that is in the future. Right now, it seems tourists (and their dollars) are more than welcome.